Rue de Charonne
Seven years ago today, I woke up in Paris for the first time.
It was our honeymoon, we were staying in a b-u-d-g-e-t hotel, and I was suffering from an embarrassing case of perma-smile.
Our crappy little hotel was located on Rue de Charonne, and last week, I went back for the first time. I snapped a few photos of our favorite cafe, the facade of the hotel (ha! nothing much to look at), the metro stop, and the fruit stand from which we bought oranges everyday. No idea why we bought oranges everyday, but we did.
The thing that struck me the most as I stood and looked around was how funny it was that *this* was the epicenter of our honeymoon. This unspectacular little street was the place I spent my first week as a wife. No umbrella drinks, no lavish dinners, no fancy dresses, no honeymoon suite.
I’ll admit that for a minute or two I was a bit bummed that we had been so frugal (not that we had much choice back then). I mean, where are the fancy photos to show the grandkids? But then I realized that it was the beginning of my love affair with Paris as a real city, not a glamourous, idealized destination.
I often receive emails from readers asking about hot spots, the nicest restaurants or the best place to shop. I always struggle with answers to these questions, because I truly don’t know. I’m okay with just wandering around. I eat street food and fresh fruit from the markets. Mediocre coffee in a random cafe doesn’t piss me off. I take photos of garbage cans, people!
I’ll never be able to convey what it is that draws me to this city, but it has more to do with the five senses than it does with Le Jules Verne or the Champs-Elysées.
48 Comments
Kariane
March 24, 2010I love that you're normal! Sometimes an orange is all you need.
Michelle from Holley & Gill
March 24, 2010What a down to earth approach to such a glamorous city. It's always the genuine "hole in the wall" spots that aren't in the city guides that make up its charm.
I too would have a perma-smile if I could visit such places. Thank you for bringing them to us every day.
Michelle from Holley & Gill
March 24, 2010What a down to earth approach to such a glamorous city. It's always the genuine "hole in the wall" spots that aren't in the city guides that make up its charm.
I too would have a perma-smile if I could visit such places. Thank you for bringing them to us every day.
Michelle from Holley & Gill
March 24, 2010What a down to earth approach to such a glamorous city. It's always the genuine "hole in the wall" spots that aren't in the city guides that make up its charm.
I too would have a perma-smile if I could visit such places. Thank you for bringing them to us every day.
Michelle from Holley & Gill
March 24, 2010What a down to earth approach to such a glamorous city. It's always the genuine "hole in the wall" spots that aren't in the city guides that make up its charm.
I too would have a perma-smile if I could visit such places. Thank you for bringing them to us every day.
Michelle from Holley & Gill
March 24, 2010What a down to earth approach to such a glamorous city. It's always the genuine "hole in the wall" spots that aren't in the city guides that make up its charm.
I too would have a perma-smile if I could visit such places. Thank you for bringing them to us every day.
Michelle from Holley & Gill
March 24, 2010What a down to earth approach to such a glamorous city. It's always the genuine "hole in the wall" spots that aren't in the city guides that make up its charm.
I too would have a perma-smile if I could visit such places. Thank you for bringing them to us every day.
Michelle from Holley & Gill
March 24, 2010What a down to earth approach to such a glamorous city. It's always the genuine "hole in the wall" spots that aren't in the city guides that make up its charm.
I too would have a perma-smile if I could visit such places. Thank you for bringing them to us every day.
nichole
March 24, 2010Michelle – Oh, that perma-smile was from marrying Evan.
thedoodlegirl
March 24, 2010Beautifully said!
Linda @ Parisien Salon
March 24, 2010I think you conveyed oh-so-perfectly the appeal that Paris has for those of us who love it beyond reason.
Happy anniversary!!!
Olga
March 24, 2010Happy Anniversary Nichole! My love affair with Paris (+ Boulangerie Sylvie et David Béatrix
began last May and I can’t wait to move there one day…
naturally nina
March 24, 2010this post made me smile inside and out. i think the "perma-smile" part was my favorite. you have such a cute way with words!
Margarita
March 24, 2010Aww, happy anniversary. I completely understand how you feel about Paris. Every corner has its' own little secret and memory that may be special only to you.
ehopmann
March 24, 2010Beautifully put!
Jackie D.
March 24, 2010Happy Anniversary!
During my first visit to Paris, I stayed in (2) hotels – the first one was the very pricey Concorde Lafayette and Hotel Therese. The Concorde was nothing like Hotel Therese. Hotel Therese was so special with its winding narrow staircase and bohemian decor. I love, love, loved it! They gave you the nicest little toiletries too. You could open the big windows to feel a real breeze. It was so wonderful – I imagine you had the same experience in your Haven apartment.
I love Paris like you do and I am not as fortunate to be able to go there as often…but I am lucky to have stumbled across your blog and I love to read & look at your great pictures. Thanks for sharing!
Suzanne
March 24, 2010What a lovely post. However I stumbled upon your blog, I'm so happy I did. I read it every day and identify with it so much. I've been to Paris times and each time have rented an apartment and just walked around. Loving your recent photos.
charliebobjo
March 24, 2010I have never been to Paris but the first time I do I just want to sit down with a glass of wine, some bread and listen to all the french people speak. I'm pretty easy to please. I love your take on Paris…now I really want to go there!
Cathi
March 24, 2010That is exactly how I love to learn about new cities when traveling myself!
Katie
March 24, 2010I spent a semester in London and have been dreaming of a return trip ever since. But where do I plan to go first? The street that my flat was on in Bloomsbury. So I can go to the neighborhood pub, see my old laundry mat, where we got our Chinese take out, etc.
And happy anniversary!
braiseandbutter
March 24, 2010i spent a summer in paris when i was 18, and really, what i cherish about my visit was my wanderings, impromptu picnics, market visit, and my crepe guy. i certainly didn't have the money or need for anything fancy, and it's still my favorite city in the world.
Vana
March 24, 2010Nichole – i loved how natural you sound. when people think of others traveling to Paris, they have this preconceived idea that they would only check out the most elegant spots. I highly disagree with that. Each year we go to Europe i am drawn to the small shops – fast food stops – only the locals know. I avoid tourist hot spots all together:) I am happiest when I am not seen:)
Cherry Blossoms
March 25, 2010What a great memory and post today! I agree some of the best food we had in Paris was right from the street vendor and I will always remember getting my banana nutella crepe off of a street corner and not in some fancy cafe. I think the best memories are from the simple things in life!
C.
March 25, 2010That's such a lovely explanation! I totally agree
the Shutter
March 25, 2010I'm LOVING your shots and your posts. Happy Anniversary!
The Armchair Parisian
March 25, 2010Beautiful. Simply beautiful.
Happy Anniversary.
laura marie
March 25, 2010For some reason this post just made me tear up… every time I've been to Paris I've been a wanderer because its hidden gems mean so, so much more to me than all the "hotspots" — thank you for putting that into words
Lemon
March 25, 2010"it has more to do with the five-sense" mmm..i want to love where i live in that way too!
DW Quilt Art
March 25, 2010Ah, I totally get it
How lovely 
trish
March 25, 2010lbp- love it when i stumble upon people who "get it". you just put a perma-smile on my face. i can totally relate to that zest and excitement you feel for being wifey and then be-her in paris; icing on the cake. yippy. frankly what little i know it of your fab4fam it seems that you all would be happy anywhere. that is the magic you have. it's all perspective and the sunny side wins. it's just easier that way world, isn't it? look over here. perma-smile life is good.
Anna/Quilted Giraffe
March 25, 2010I love the bright colors in those photos. Very summery.
El
March 25, 2010This is a great post and I laughed out loud when I read the part about skimping on your honeymoon. We broke even on our wedding and spent next to nothing on our honeymoon. I completely agree though, I'm content doing nothing but wandering around Paris. No itinerary needed.
Katie*Belle
March 25, 2010This is so well put! My husband and I had a similar budget-conscious honeymoon in Napa. And I agree that the best part of traveling is truly experiencing a place with all the senses. Wandering is essential!
Marisa and Creative Thursday
March 25, 2010that's exactly how I'm looking forward to exploring this city ~happy anniversary to you and Evan
Lindsey
March 25, 2010The experience in Paris isn't about staying in a luxe hotel, it's about exactly what you love doing – wandering, watching, eating, tasting, laughing, squirming, photographing. Love this post.
Ironically, I JUST ate on rue de Charonne last night! Cute little soup bar aptly called bar à soupes. Has existed for 10 years, minimalistic décor, EXCELLENT soups! (great for budget eating)
Phoenix
March 25, 2010I think Paris draws us in because it teaches us to use those five senses to really and truly live. Parisians embrace love and passion and it's good to follow right along.
How odd it must feel to walk down the same streets you strode down on your honeymoon – sort of like a time traveler a bit?
Glad you are enjoying your trip…and an orange a day is a lovely thing.
Sunny Verma
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caroline @ patagonia gifts
March 26, 2010I loved your story, darling! doesn't the simplest is the best?
have a lovely weekend! xo
colorchic
March 26, 2010You don't have to explain it to me… I love Paris! The everyday wondering around Paris, it's the simple things I love the best!
alexkeller
March 27, 2010i've wanted to visit France since I took French in jr. high. I've only made it the UK so far, so I've been traveling vicariously through your photos – thank you. (and when i do visit, i'm still going to ask you where to go)
pollinate
March 29, 2010Oh why have I not read your blog sooner!? How is it that Paris can make even the most mundane and every day look sophisticated and chic? Thank you for providing me with a daily escape to my favourite place. PS. I think my delight with Paris must have begun in a previous life…
may
April 1, 2010When we first went to Paris, we stayed in a modest hotel and ate modestly as well, savouring all the beauty that is Paris around us. Who needs to admire hotel room surroundings when there is so much to see and do outside? I love your views of Paris. Thank you.
kanishk
April 2, 2010It's always the genuine "hole in the wall" spots that aren't in the city guides that make up its charm.
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Anonymous
November 29, 2010Dear Nichole, Thank you for this post. I lived on Rue de Charonne for a year and although it is a very unassuming street, it does have its charms: little bookstores selling delicate gift wrappers and souvenirs, the quaint Le Pure Cafe, darling fashion boutiques offering unique accessories… best of all, brasseries with wait-staff who smile and all you "Ma petite" with a smile that warms even a cold Paris winter day.
Thanks for bringing back the memories. I hope Rue de Charonne was as good to you as it was to me
Jaz
May 6, 2011Good service in hotels often works both ways as you can usually expect better service if you are courteous to the staff who take care of you during your stay.
Pousadas Em Natal
Anonymous
May 19, 2011YEARS ago someone I worked with was heading to Paris. When I asked, he said when you step out the hotel's front door, where ever you point your feet is just fine! He was, of course, exactly right!
ashinbleu
May 31, 2011WOW! 7 years ago I did the same thing…my husband and I went to France for our honeymoon. We went on budget and didn't go to fancy places/restaurants either. We didn't stay in Paris very long though. Wish I could go back and see it now with my photographer's eye and not have been so nervous about speaking French correctly :/
Great post!
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